In Brief
- The amount of used textiles exported from the EU has tripled over the past two decades from slightly over 550,000 tonnes in 2000 to almost 1.7 million tonnes in 2019.
- The amount of used textiles exported in 2019 was on average 3.8 kilogrammes per person, or 25% of the approximately 15 kg of textiles consumed each year in the EU.
- In 2019, 46% of used textiles exported from the EU ended up in Africa. The textiles primarily go to local reuse as there is a demand for cheap, used clothes from Europe. What is not fit for reuse mostly ends up in open landfills and informal waste streams.
- In 2019, 41% of used textiles exported from the EU ended up in Asia. Most of these textiles are directed to dedicated economic zones where they are sorted and processed. The used textiles are then mostly downcycled into industrial rags or filling, or re-exported for recycling in other Asian countries or for reuse in Africa. Textiles that cannot be recycled or re-exported likely end up in landfills.
Insights
EU faces challenges in managing used textiles, reports the European Environment Agency. Discarded textiles in Europe, including used clothing and footwear, are an increasing waste and export problem.
The amount of used textiles exported from the European Union (EU) has tripled over the past two decades, and the amounts may increase further, according to the EEA briefing ‘EU exports of used textiles in Europe’s circular economy’. The briefing is based on a more detailed analysis by the EEA’s European Topic Centre of Circular Economy and Resource Use.
Despite efforts to collect textiles separately within the EU by 2025, Europe still struggles with limited reuse and recycling capacities. As a result, a substantial portion of discarded clothing and textiles are exported to Africa and Asia. Contrary to common belief, the fate of these exported textiles is often uncertain, challenging the perception that they are always put to good use in receiving regions.
The report also examines how current and proposed EU policies address challenges associated with these exports. The EU’s strategy on sustainable and circular textiles, published in March 2022, specifically acknowledges the need to address issues stemming from textile exports, signaling a commitment to tackle this growing concern.
Dated: March 27, 2023
